In the heart of old Nicosia, opposite the Church of Panagia Faneromeni, lies one of the few places in the city where time seems to have stopped.
The old pharmacy and optician’s shop of the Hadjipavlou family operated continuously from the early 20th century, passing from generation to generation and serving the area at a time when Faneromeni was a bustling centre of trade and life. The revival of the space was no accident. For Michalis Hadjipavlou, grandson of the first owner, Michalakis Hadjipavlou, the shop represents a piece of both family and local history. Out of respect for its roots, he decided to restore it exactly as it had been when functioning as a pharmacy and optician’s.
The old precision scales, bottles, examination equipment, and the patient-lifting chair that have survived to this day evoke an era when medicines were not pre-packaged but prepared by hand. The decision to restore the shop was prompted when his mother, Maro Hadjipavlou - who had worked there for 70 years - was forced to stop due to the pandemic. Michalis chose to honour the three people who had kept the small family business alive for over a century. With the support of the Ecclesiastical Committee of Faneromeni and little practical help from the Nicosia Municipality, as he mentions to Politis, he proceeded with the conservation and renewal of the space. Today, the shop operates as a traditional café and bar, preserving its historic character while attracting locals, tourists, and students who want to discover - or rediscover - old Nicosia.
From grandfather to grandson
“My name is Michalis Hadjipavlou, and I grew up listening to stories about my grandfather Michalakis Hadjipavlou’s pharmacy. He was both a doctor and pharmacist and considered the building not just a business but a mission. As a child, I remember being taken to the old building. It smelled of herbs, alcohol, extracts, and something else I couldn’t name at the time, it was the scent of service. The old philosophy that healing wasn’t limited to medicines but included conversation, care, and human contact. These memories stayed with me, a gentle call that never faded.
During the Turkish invasion, I served as a soldier. Afterwards, I went to the London School of Economics, studied economics, and became a chartered accountant in London. I eventually settled in Athens, co-founding Deloitte & Touche there.
The pharmacy was founded in 1909 by Michalakis Hadjipavlou, a graduate of Pharmacy at the University of Athens, and was considered highly innovative for its time. Medicines, then known as compounds, were prepared by mixing various pharmaceutical substances, as ready-made medications were not yet available.
My father, Kleovoulos Hadjipavlou, decided to follow medical studies and in 1938, after graduating from the University of Athens’ Medical School, studied optometry in Germany. Due to World War II, he returned to Cyprus and became a pharmacist, though he preferred optics. In the 1950s, he returned with my mother, bringing the best equipment of the era. My father was fascinated by technology and passionate about science. Following my grandfather’s death, the business continued, providing pharmaceutical services.
In 1949, my father took over the family pharmacy at age 24, managing one of the largest pharmacies of the time (the “Global Pharmacy”), working alongside his brother Kostas. They also founded a company importing and distributing cosmetics and fashion items to other pharmacies.
When the building began to deteriorate and remained closed during the pandemic, I felt a piece of our family history fading away. Passing by Faneromeni, I would look at the old pharmacy as if it were waiting for me, urging that it must not remain abandoned. The idea of restoration did not come suddenly - it matured like a duty. I knew if I didn’t act, the building would end up a forgotten shadow of itself. Eventually, I decided it was time to restore it, always with care. Each change had to be gentle, respectful. It wasn’t just a building; it was a family heirloom. My mother, Maro Hadjipavlou, had managed it until the pandemic.
The restoration
I soon realised that restoring this space wasn’t just about materials. It was about understanding its character. The glass bottles had to stay - not as decoration but as elements that tell the story themselves. The wooden furniture shouldn’t be replaced, just cleaned and highlighted, leaving the marks of time as part of its beauty. I didn’t want a polished, new space. I wanted to keep the old alive, discreetly layered onto its new form.
Upstairs, the chair of my grandfather remains, for anyone coming for eye exams. It may be unique in Cyprus today. When the main restoration was completed and management passed to Charalambos Constantinou, I felt relief. I knew they would respect the space. Charalambos has a fresh perspective but also an appreciation for what a place with so much history means. I watched them handle it as I would - with care and understanding. The pharmacy was now something greater than ourselves.
People began returning to the area. Nicosia’s walled city is coming back to life thanks to students and young people. I see this as a second rebirth of the city. Already, children living in municipal dormitories walk through the area, and I hope more young people will come. We owe a huge thanks to the Ecclesiastical Committee of Panagia. The building, like others in the area, belongs to the Church, which rents it to us.
The pharmacy is no longer just an old building; it is a living organism - a meeting point, a small island of warmth in the city centre. We decided to create a modern yet vintage all-day bar and café, with 19 signature cocktails, aiming to keep life in the city centre alive.
The reward
The most moving moment for me is seeing people enter the shop, pausing to learn its story or take photos. Many ask if the glasses in the display are for sale - they are from the 1960s–70s -and when we explain they are exhibits, I see a sweet disappointment. It is heartening that people now come to Nicosia’s centre specifically for our shop.
A unique corner
Nicosia has changed. People and habits have changed. In the past, the area was bustling, full of activity and local shops. Over time, life shifted towards Makariou Avenue, leaving the centre deserted. Yet I am connected to this area and our Church in Faneromeni. All our family events - weddings, baptisms, funerals - have been here. That’s why I chose to restore it with my own resources, investing significantly to transform it into a traditional café and all-day bar, marrying the city’s history with the new.”